Friday, October 31, 2014

Shortening a bias skirt from the waist

I thought I'd share how I shortened a bias skirt from the elasticated waist. I didn't remove the existing elastic as it would have taken too long to pick out all the stitches.

First I measured down to the new required waistline. The safety pins are holding the two layers together but are not strictly necessary.

Then I made a second marked line two elastic widths above the first.

I trimmed away the excess along this second marked line, then put the outer layer inside the lining, right sides together.

I measured the amount of elastic required for the waistline and joined it into a circle, then pinned it to the newly cut edge from the lining side, matching the half, quarter and eighth marks. Using my overlocker with the blade disengaged, I sewed the elastic to the skirt, stretching the elastic to fit the fabric.

This is what the finished overlooking looks like. You could use a zigzag or three step zigzag if you don't have an overlocker.

I then turned the outer layer over the top of the elastic and into the lining, wrapping the elastic edge with the outer fabric. I then used a zigzag stitch to anchor all the layers together, stretching the elastic to match the fabric as I sewed.

I then turned the skirt right sides out, and steamed the stretched out elastic to bring it back to the correct length.


Thursday, October 30, 2014

A me-made outfit

Those days when I don't achieve much are rather boring so maybe a weekly roundup would be better.

On another note I have decided to include some of the things I have made in the hiatus.

This picture shows me wearing a frankentee made from a plain and a striped blue teeshirt, a pair of elastic waist corduroy trousers, and a faux sheepskin waistcoat.

The waistcoat uses the Sewing Workshop E-shrug pattern. I needed to increase the size of the pattern to fit me, and since I was using left-over fabric, I divided the pattern to give it side seams and a back yoke.

I used a horn button on the 'skin' side, and a wooden one on the pile side. The loops are strips of the fabric folded pile side in and top stitched. I trimmed the pile shorter to get it to lie flatter.

The seams are sewn with the 'skin' sides together, then folded back, top stitched open, and trimmed close to the stitching. I found this looked better than having the pile exposed in the seams, as the backing showed. The hems are simply turned and topstitched to match the seams. I trimmed the pile on the corners to make them less bulky.


Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Yesterday's achievements

Additional squares for teal crayon box jacket
I decided that this jacket was too short, and that is why I have hardly worn it in the nearly 2 years since it was finished. Since I have lots of leftover yarn, I have decided to make another row of squares. I looked back at my original plans, and decided which 'outer' colours to use for each square.
Yesterday at knit night in the Global Cafe, I made the first 2 of 12, and relearned how to make them. I used a .5mm larger needle than I used for the rest of the jacket to allow for my hip size.
Here they are against the jacket where they will go on completion.
I also received some new patterns. I admit I'm a pattern addict, so they won't necessarily get used, and even if I do use them it may be some time.

Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Crafting every day

I have decided to use this blog to record what I do craft wise to hold myself accountable. My target is to do something craft related every day.

Yesterday. I printed and taped together the pattern for the Finlayson Sweater from Thread Theory Designs.


Saturday, August 11, 2012

I have posted a new tutorial on the Free Tutorials section of my website. It contains instructions for drafting and sewing what I call my Angel Dress. The drafting instructions are for either using Garment Designer, or for drawing a pattern based on an A-line dress pattern with set in sleeves.

The finished dress looks like this:

Saturday, December 10, 2011

A Hat Using Garment Designer

Someone recently posted pictures of a sweater and matching hat. They had designed the sweater using Garment Designer, but I misunderstood and thought they had designed the hat too. While I was corrected about this, it got me thinking about whether it would be possible to make a hat pattern using Garment Designer.

I opted for a simple 6-segment design, but you can change the number of panels easily.

First I took my measurements. Around my head from the nape, over the ears and across my temples I measure 22in. Over the top of my head from the nape to my forehead measures 14in, but from earlobe to earlobe measures 16in. I therefore decided that the segments should measure 3.5in wide (to allow for a little stretch) and 8in long.

I decided to use ‘shapes’ to develop this design, so the sloper size used is not important. I went into the Display Pieces dialog box and turned off all the standard garment pieces.

For the hat, I selected Shape 1 from the Extras menu, and set the shape to be Triangular, Curved-Medium. I also displayed dimensions.

I selected the bottom line of the triangular shape and dragged it downwards until the height measurement was 8in for the upper section of the side.

I selected the point at the centre of the bottom edge and moved it upwards until the measurement for the height of this segment disappeared completely, then adjusted the curve control points until they completely flattened this bottom line.

I selected the outer point of the bottom line and brought it inwards until the width at the bottom was 3.5in (i.e. 2x1.75), then adjusted the top of this line segment and its control points until the line at the edge looked ‘right’. In my case this proved to be a line that is 5.66in high (from the statistics on the bottom left of the window), perpendicular to the bottom edge at the base, and with only a very small curve inwards at the top.
The final step is to reshape the curve at the top to flow more smoothly from the lower section.

If you are sewing, add seam allowances now, print the pattern and cut 6 identical pieces from fleece with the greatest stretch going across the pieces.

For knitting, you will be making either a circular or flat piece that is 6x the width of this pattern piece. The shaping at the edge of the pattern piece will be accomplished by decreasing at the 1/6th marks. You may want to manually stagger the left and right edge decreases so they don’t appear on the same row.

You can see from this short tutorial that you could adjust the sides any way you want to get your desired shape of hat.

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Craft Fair Pictures

So the craft fair happened last Saturday, and my friend Carla took some pictures. Here they are:
An overview of my space

The table with sock monsters and upcycled fingerless mittens

The clothes rail with upcycled t-shirts, sweaters and jackets